While this post was originally written after the trip we took to Romania in August 2018, it is updated for October 2024 with comments and corrections I received from friends and followers of the blog who visited Transfagaran up until October 2024. It means you can trust the prices and the content being up-to-date. Surely you are welcome to write me in the comments.
Last year we were in Romania and wanted very much to drive down Transfagarasan road, but unfortunately didn’t get the chance. So this time, while visiting Romania in August, we decided to visit this road no matter what. We travelled the Sibiu district and the day before coming back home, we drove to Transfagarasan and spent the entire day there. We found a really good rental car deal through Paapm Paapm website and the actual car rental service provided by the Romanian Autonom car rental company.
A bit about Transfagarasan
Transfagarasan is considered one of the most beautiful roads in the world, crossing the southern part of the Carpathian mountains. It was built in the 70s and is 90km long. It has many twists and turns, and passes adjacent to Bâlea Lake, Bâlea waterfall and Vidraru lake.
It starts out in Cartisoara village and ends in Curtea de Argeș village.
Make sure to check your GPS navigation to go through the actual Transfagarasan road and not through an alternative road.
How to reach Transfagarasan road
The closest cities are Pitesti and Sibiu.
Pitesti is 37km away (south).
Sibiu is 48km away (north).
Brasov is 105km away (east).
Bucharest is 154km away (south).
We arrived from the Sibiu area and got on the road within an hour. We started at Cartisoara village which is marked A on the map.
When is Transfagarasan open? Updates for October 2024
The road is open year-round, but during the winter 25km of it are closed. The closed part is between Piscu Negru and Bâlea Cascadă. That part is closed since during the winter it might prove dangerous to drive through. This part is closed between October 31st and the 1st of July. During the winter, more sections of the road might be closed depending on the weather and how safe it is to drive there.
In the past I recommend following the Blogger Martin, who leads bike tours on Transfagarasan and posts updates regarding the weather and whether parts of the road are closed off but he is no longer actively sharing updates.
You may check this live video stream from a camera on the Balea Lake (Lacul Balea) at around 2,034 meters altitude.
The most recent updates (6th September 2024) from travelers say that the road is open fully and you can drive to the top and to the other side. It is expected to close on October 31st between Bâlea Cascadă (Waterfall) in the north to Piscu Negru in the South. This section should open up again on July 1st 2025. In case you happen to arrive and find it closed, you may take the cable car to Balea Lake, if the weather allows it and there are 10 persons (you can park the car at the Balea Waterfall parking).
Our experience at Transfagarasan road
We arrived at the road on an August weekday, in the late morning hours (Around 10am) with a ton of expectations, and we were delighted that the road met our expectations and even surpassed them. We happened upon a great day, with excellent visibility and without many clouds. Honestly, whenever a cloud popped up, it only added to the magical feeling on the road.
An unexpected stop
We started the ride and after a few minutes of driving suddenly had to stop, since apparently there was a rock collapse. Since we already started the drive up the mountain, the weather was pleasant so even the stop was a nice experience. Everyone left their vehicles and waited for the go ahead. I think we stopped there for about a half hour.
Transfagarasan road length
The road is 90km and at first, I thought we’ll quickly reach its end, but since its full of turns the maximum speed is 40km/h. Plus, you stop on the side of the road to take pictures every two minutes (Its really beautiful around there). Take into account that this trip takes half a day at the very least, perhaps even a full day.
Balea waterfall – cable car and hiking trail
At about the height where the forest ends and a treeless alpine area begins, you will see many vehicles stopping on the side of the road. This is the entrance to the cable car that goes up from the Bela waterfall to the lake. You can park for free along the road and I think there is also an internal parking lot for the restaurant which operates there.
The cable car goes up to Lake Bela (and as I mentioned we didn’t do it because we continued with the car to the lake). The price is 50 lei one way for an adult and 30 lei for a child and payment here is still only cash as of October 2024.
If you are visiting on a pleasant day and you like hiking, you can do a hiking route from here to the Bela waterfall – about an hour of climbing and another hour back to the parking lot. The route is steep and not recommended for children under the age of 5 according to several groups of travelers we met along the way who said it was difficult for them. If you are with a baby – the track is not accessible for strollers. Note that you are following the route marked with a red circle.
If you just want to dip your feet at the cold water – you can do it at the beginning of the route at the point where the route starts to rise from the parking lot.
There was a point when cars started slowing down and we realized we arrived at the lake (Map). You can’t see the lake from the road, you arrive at a parking area with many stalls. We parked our car at the lot, which cost 10 leu an hour (prices are updated on September 2024).
At the stalls we could buy local street food, such as a cheese filled Mămăligă ball, hot corn on a cob, different types of sausage, local cakes and more. There’s a food court with plenty of seats where you can buy local grilled food.
At one of the stalls that sold sausages, the woman said that one of the sausages was a bear meat sausage. I don’t know if that’s for real or not but that’s what she said. Anyway, you can also buy there the local drink – Ţuica made from plums.
From the parking and stall area you walk for less than 5-minutes and reach the hidden lake.
The fun part about it is that you can buy the local food and sit by the lake, have a little picnic an amazing view of the lake and the mountains.
I highly recommend arriving on a weekday and relatively early in the day, as it’ll be much less crowded. The lake is really beautiful, we had a fun time sitting there, watching it and taking photos.
Things to do at Balea lake
The lake area has walking routes, so if you’re looking for a nice physical challenge, you can visit and do a walking track.
The simple route is to go around the lake and is comfortable even with children and will take less than an hour. There are additional and longer routes and you can go up and go about a kilometer south to the other side of the ridge and return on foot through the Balea tunnel to the parking lot. We didn’t do this route and it is suitable for those with who love to hike. You should find out more details about this route in advance and prepare for it.
Another nice thing is two restaurants with balconies overlooking the lake. We visited the first restaurant from the top.
I ordered a cappuccino and Roman order Ciorba soup, as usual.
Although it’s a lake and the middle of August, since it’s located at a 2000m height, it’s relatively chilly up there, one might even call it cold. I wore a short shirt and scarf and was very cold.
So another recommendation is bringing long trousers and closed shoes, and bring a jacket (If you visit during another season, bring a coat and toque, since there are also strong winds).
There is also a cable car which goes along the road. As I mentioned we didn’t try the cable car as we drove the car, but it seems like a nice experience and you will have to take it if you want to get here once the roads are closed. There is also a really high and long Omega ride which seems really extreme.
Silly experience we had at the lake
Before returning to the vehicle, Roman decided to buy some sausages and I bought a local dessert and paid in cash at the restaurant. When we came to the car we realized we didn’t have enough cash left to pay for the parking. Apparently, there aren’t any ATMs in the area and we had to look for a couple of Leu to pay for parking. Eventually the guard at the entrance let us go, but we felt quite embarrassed and it wasn’t very pleasant. As of September 2024 – both parking lots at the lake operate electric gates and accept credit cards at the exit. The current cost is 10 lei per hour and they charge by every half an hour (15 lei per one hour and fifteen minutes for example).
Capra waterfall
The Capra waterfall is a relatively small waterfall that can be seen from the road when continuing south from Lake Balea. After passing through the Balea tunnel, the road begin to descend steeply and within a few minutes you reach a section of the road where everyone slows down. There are not many parking spaces near the waterfall, so one of the lanes is sometimes blocked and turns into a parking lot (because there are also no curbs to stop at). There is not too much to do except take pictures there and maybe buy something at the nearby stall.
Where do you see bears?
You can see bears all along the road, in different sections. Most of the reports from travelers who were there in September 2024 were about encounters with bears on the section of the road between Capra Falls and southwards to the Vidraru Dam and even a little south of it. You can meet the bears by driving slowly on the road, sometimes they will cross it or walk / stand next to it, on the side of the road or in the forest. It is difficult to pass the entire road without meeting bears. Even if you drive fast, you will probably slow down because of a car that has slowed down or stopped to take a picture of them, so pay attention and watch for unexpected stops or cars standing behind every turn.
Vidraru Dam (and lake)
The southern point of interest on the Transfagarasan Road is the Vidraru Dam – it is a huge dam that creates an artificial lake with the same name. You can park along the road and cross the dam on foot, take pictures and admire the view, the lake and the huge structure of the Dam. You can spend fifteen minutes there and move on.
Accommodations in the area of the Transfagarasan Road
We reached the Transfagarasan road from Sibiu , but if you want to sleep in the area of the road, here are some places I found with good reviews:
There is also a guesthouse at Balea lake if you want to stay in the road’s vicinity.
Questions and answers about Transfagarasan Road
Q: Are there any attractions or activities nearby along Transfagarasan Road?
A: Many people come to the road and have picnics along the way, there are stopping places along the entire road. Some even go camping there. There are several hiking trails and picturesque observation points along the route. In addition, you can stop at the Vidraru Dam, one of the highest dams in Europe, or visit the historic Poienari Castle, which stands on a cliff overlooking the Argeș River.
Q: What are some safety tips for driving on Transfagarasan Road?
A: There are many cyclists and motorcyclists on the road so you have to drive slowly and carefully. It is important to drive carefully and adhere to the speed limit, because the road is narrow and winding with a steep descent. Be prepared for sudden changes in weather, including fog and rain, which can reduce visibility. In addition, make sure that your vehicle is in good condition and equipped with tires suitable for driving in the mountains.
It is recommended to reach the road in the morning and in the middle of the week, otherwise there can be traffic congestion, especially in the area of Lake Bala.
We went mid-week in the morning, when we made the way back from the other side (around five o’clock in the evening) there was quite a long traffic jam in the lake area.
Q: What clothing is recommended to wear when visiting the Transfagarasan Road?
Bring warm and long clothes with you, even in the summer months. I didn’t do it and it was really cold for me to go outside the car.
Q: Are there places to eat along Transfagarasan Road?
A: There are food stalls and a restaurant at Lake Bala and stalls occasionally along the road.
Q: When is the best time to visit Transfagarasan?
A: The road is usually open to traffic from the end of June to the beginning of October, depending on the weather conditions. The best time to visit is during the summer months when the weather is milder and the road less likely to be blocked by snow or ice. As I mentioned already, I think it is best to enjoy the road during weekdays rather than the weekend or public Holidays, so it gets less crowded.
Q: How much time to spend in Transfagarasan Road?
A: We spent the entire day, from morning to evening. Consider just crossing the 111km or road will take you approx 3 hours of driving, from one end to the other. Some people actually spend the night or few nights along it, so they can enjoy the sights in a more relaxed schedule.
Q: Can I enjoy the Transfagarasan Road with public transportation?
A: I actually checked and didn’t find any public transportation services to go through the Transfagarasan Road. There is a bus and rail service which goes on a parallel way to the west, between Râmnicu Vâlcea and Sibiu which you can take but it would only be 20km to the west of the Transfagarasan Road. You can find few tour operatours via Get your guide and Viator to take you for a guided trip, but personally I really like to drive around myself with a rental car and stop whenever I want.
Q: What is the meaning of Transfagarasan Road?
A: The road was built in the early 1970s as a strategic military route by the regime of Nicolae Ceausescu, the former communist leader of Romania. It was designed to provide quick access over the mountains in the event of a Soviet invasion. Today, it is known for its stunning scenery and challenging driving conditions, attracting tourists and driving enthusiasts from around the world.
Q: What are the most worthwhile places along Transfagarasan Road?
A: One of the most iconic features of the Transfagarasan Road is the Balea Lake and waterfall, located at an altitude of over 2,000 meters. The second place not to be missed is Lake Vidraru and Vidraru Dam. In addition, there are several tunnels and canals along the route, offering breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains and valleys.
Q: What is the distance between Transfagarasan Road and major cities?
A: Bucharest: The distance between Bucharest and the Transfagarasan road is about 160-180 kilometers, depending on the exact starting point in Bucharest. It takes about 3-4 hours to drive from Bucharest to the beginning of Transmigration Road.
Sibiu: Sibiu is a city in Transylvania, located about 50 kilometers from the Transmigration Highway, depending on the specific route taken. The trip usually takes about an hour.
Brasov: Brasov is another city in Transylvania and is located approximately 90-110 kilometers from the Transmigration Highway, depending on the starting point in Brasov. It usually takes 1.5-2.5 hours to drive from Brasov to the Transfiguration road.
Cluj-Napoca: Cluj-Napoca is located further north in Romania and is about 250-300 kilometers from the Transmigration Highway. The trip usually takes about 4-5 hours.
These travel distances and times are approximate and may vary depending on factors such as the specific start and end points, road conditions and traffic. It is always a good idea to check with Navigation apps like Waze or Google Maps before traveling, just make sure it actually takes you through the Transfagarasan road and doesn’t navigate you around it like it originally happened to us.